This trail runs from the popular basecamp at Landmannalaugar, across the highlands, over a saddle between two glaciers, and down along the Skogar River, which is home to dozens of the most scenic waterfalls you will ever see. July 1 - 4, 2022. This adventure was so majestic I need to split it into a few sections.
Day 2: 17.5 miles
I was happy I waited to see Símonarsker because it looked extra pretty in the morning. There was a spur trail to the top but it ran right along a cornice and would likely involve tons of postholing so I skipped that side quest. I took a break in an ice tunnel where I collected some fresh tasty water dripping from the roof. There were tons of collapsed snow bridges and some had footprints leading up to the edge of the collapse, and then a new trail went further upstream where the snow was thicker, but how long will that new path last? The trail dropped down into the valley which is home to Lake Álftavatn and this looked akin to a scene from the Lord of the Rings, like the Misty Mountains thawing out from a harsh winter. It was breathtaking.
One of the prettiest scenes I have seen in my entire life: lake Álftavatn and it’s surrounding valley with the Mýrdalsjökull glacier to the left.
Safety Third! How long until this snow bridge collapses and an unfortunate hiker falls into the river underneath??
After taking many photos and being left dumbfounded with the beauty of this scene, I ripped down into the valley, passing many hikers, with one group again asking me if I was a thru-hiker and if I had done the PCT. I took a break at the hut down and set a timelapse of the puffy clouds tumbling across the sky. It was a short hike to the Hvanngil Hut which is built next to an old viking camp where some stone foundations still remain. Further along was a big bridge built over the Kaldaklofskvísl River that had a placard which showed how the previous bridge cracked in half during a storm. From there, the land seemed to transition from lush green to a rugged surface of Mars, littered with volcanic rocks that were launched into their current resting place.
Another bridged river crossing with a pitstop for long exposure waterfall photos and then onward towards the next hut, Emstrur-Botnar. It was also absolutely packed and had a tent city which already seemed to have no vacancy. I enjoyed dinner on the porch and chatted with some hikers before continuing down to the Fremri-Emstrur river which flowed through a deep gorge with a janky bridge crossing over it. After a few short miles, I found a perfect tent spot next to a tiny rustling stream and decided to camp for the night. After I set up, I was enjoying a book, and then a flock of curious sheep started to head my way. I took many photos of them and then called it a day.
