This trail runs from the popular basecamp at Landmannalaugar, across the highlands, over a saddle between two glaciers, and down along the Skogar River, which is home to dozens of the most scenic waterfalls you will ever see. July 1 - 4, 2022. This adventure was so majestic I need to split it into a few sections.
Click the photos for higher resolution!
Day 1: 9.6 miles
I hauled my duffle bag via scooter to the storage lockers at the bus stop in Rykevick and then hopped on my bus to the starting line. My bus seat neighbor, Mike, was from Whales and we swapped hiking stories throughout the ride and wound up leapfrogging past each other a few times on the ensuing trail. The Landmannalaugar base camp was alive with the hustle and bustle of dozens of hikers and posh all-inclusive excursion tours setting up. Four separate people / groups asked if I was a thru-hiker from the States, I guess it was my trail running shoes, super filthy & used gear, or general swagger, that gave me the appearance of a grizzled hiking veteran.
I did some stretching and then hit the trail to hike a short spur to see a massive lava field flanked with colorful mountains then onto the intersection to Mount Bláhnjúkur. I dropped my pack behind a boulder and made a quick zip up to the summit. The surrounding mountains had streaks of white snow still melting which created an amazing contrast to the underlying red rocks. Another hiker at the top asked if I was a thru-hiker… maybe I permanently smell like hiker trash?
A few miles later I got to the Stórihver Geyser and as I was taking some photos it began to rain. I decided to set my rainfly and wait it out, since ahead on the trail there was an ascent up through a large snowfield where I knew the temps would be lower, and I wanted to be dry when I went through. As the rain subsided I took a moment to stand in the steam vents from the geyser to warm up a bit.
On the snowfield crossing to the Hrafntinnuskur Hut there were massive cairns to lead the way and the sunlight, dimmed by the heavy clouds, created a B&W effect. I ate dinner with a few other hikers on the hut’s balcony and had to bite my tongue when I saw how comically heavy some of their gear was… such as a huge stove, Mountain House packets for every meal, and even a full sized grill lighter.
I set off into the “night” to find a solo spot to camp and this confused some of the other hikers. The European style of hiking tends to hike shorter days and always camp at huts, but I dislike sleeping in crowded tent cities or paying to sleep in a primitive cabin. I know how to pitch a tent and follow LNT Principles. Fog covered the Símonarsker mountain and I thought it might clear up so I sat down to read my book for a bit, but a wave of exhaustion soon washed over me so I decided to set camp for the night.
